We spent 2 months in Manali (April and May). I am going to write 2 parts for this experience. The first part mostly covers our experience and day-to-day life. The second part has details about the surroundings and places we visited.
Manali was one of the prettiest places I have stayed so far. Sure, there were challenges like very cold weather, especially when it rained. But seeing nature so close by was a hell of an experience. TBH our homestay was quite amazing and kind of made us stay in more than go out.
Why Manali?
Simply to escape the heat and live in a city surrounded by snowy mountains, rivers, and jungles. I have lived in metro cities and beach areas but not within a hilly area. I wanted to learn how to navigate my way if we were to live in a remote place. Not too remote though. Hence Manali. Again, the city has access to local markets, transport, and basic medical care if we needed it.
Getting there and settling in
We took a bus directly from Jaipur to Manali from Ram Dalal Travels. We booked the ticket from the RedBus platform. It cost us 1500 rupees per person for the bus ticket. The ride was super comfortable. The only complaint I have is that the dinner and breakfast (next day) stops were very bad. The food was too pricey and the quality of food was also very bad.
The bus dropped us at the private Volvo bus station in Manali and we booked a local cab from there to our accommodation. The place was near DPS Manali school and it cost us 300 rupees.
The Airbnb we booked. We booked from 1st April to 30th April from Airbnb and extended it for another month by speaking to the hosts directly.
To reach the homestay, one has to walk on a small trail of 100-200 meters. At the time of check-in, the host's family helped us reach there with our luggage.
A note about accommodation there is that one can find monthly rentals by exploring locally. Some homestays are nicely equipped for a longer stay and are relatively cheaper than what you book online.
Weather
The weather is pleasant on sunny days. I would sit in the sun a lot while working. On those bright days, single-layer clothes felt sufficient. However, on rainy days, it was too cold and it was difficult for my body to retain heat without proper thermal wear. We also rented a heater for such days to feel more comfortable. It is unpredictable so I'd suggest planning your day around what the forecast says.
We didn't see snow during our time there. But the spring season was amazing. It was lovely to see branches, flowers, and fruits grow in front of your eyes. There was an apple orchard garden right outside our room. And we saw tiny fruits before we left. The host had the prettiest rose bushes and they bloomed in the month of May with all kinds of colorful roses.
A typical day
We would randomly wake up to a sunny morning or a cruel rainy day. We cooked most of our meals as the home had an equipped kitchen for daily cooking. While working, we kept ourselves warm with hot drinks and a heater. I would sketch journal scenes around me using Procreate.
The unique thing about this homestay was other guests living around us. We'd chat, play cards, cook and eat meals together, and occasionally go out for treks and outings together. That felt like having a home away from home.
Going out days
We'd go on walks, treks/tours (more details about it in Part 2), and markets to explore and shop. Even though there are a couple of grocery stores nearby, we liked to walk all the way to Manu Market on foot.
I had this misconception of Manali being a tourist place and that it'd have scarcity of everyday supplies, but I was surprised by the availability of stores and how fresh all the produce was.
Highlights
To see the snow forming on top of the mountains and then see it melting as the sunny days pass by.
Seeing the grass, flowers, plants, trees, and apple orchards growing gradually. We also saw tiny apples forming on the branches. It's just a fruit tree but I was so mesmerised and happy to spot each one saying "ee there's one!! Here's one more!! Ooh ooh that one's a bit red!!".
Shiro - A street dog who behaved like a pet for many houses in the neighbourhood. He used to come and visit us for some pets and treats almost every day. He also used to bring his friend whom we named Halwa (Hindi word for Shiro).
Exploring local ways, festivals and rituals. We also saw the local dance that people do during the festival. Musicians were playing a traditional Himachali brass horn. It sounded very ominous but in a good way. Seeing the celebration of the festival was not something on my list in the first place but I am glad that it happened while we were there.
Visiting markets as regulars/locals. Many shopkeepers and food stall owners knew us within 2-3 visits. We would greet them and have a small chat. Which made me feel like strangers there become friends in no time :)
We found trails on AllTrails and would decide where to go on our own. It was fun and scary at times. More in Part 2.
As I mentioned earlier, the families living with us felt like going back to those summer vacations that I used to enjoy so much as a child. Very nostalgic.
Challenges
We needed some days to adjust to the extreme cold. It may not be extreme for other people, but it was for us for sure. A nice layer of thermal wear, hot water and a heater surely helped.
We extended our stay off Airbnb at the same place in advance, the host had a misunderstanding about the dates, and that made us deal with a few hiccups at the time of check-out. Eventually things got resolved but there was some inconvenience to be dealt with. Our hosts were a great family. Sometimes it felt like they were not too responsive in terms of fixing a few issues with some electric appliances. I get that it's a remote area, but I feel they could have handled this better.
One of the most irritating parts was price hikes. In the name of "peak season" in May, the auto/taxi drivers along with some food vendors would increase rates randomly and one has to deal with it.
The lowlight of this trip was tourists throwing trash in jungle areas, walking pathways, snow, everywhere. These routes used to be relatively cleaner when there were fewer visitors in the month of April for sure. I wish people would become more mindful and take care of their own rubbish to preserve the place as it is.
My take on this trip
It was something new, scary, fun, beautiful and memorable. Would love to live in the mountains if I can. Wouldn't mind seeing them during different seasons. It surely feels slow at times but I guess that's the pace you need in life sometimes.