I spent January and half of February in Goa. I mostly stayed in North Goa but also spent a week or so in South Goa. These are my notes from that time.
Note: keeping this casual — just raw thoughts and memories.
Why Goa
My partner and I started traveling to various cities in India. Our purpose is to pick a city that we think we will like, stay there for a few weeks, experience local lifestyle, explore surroundings, and repeat.
We have been to Goa before so it felt like a safer choice to begin with. We had a sense of how to get around the state.
Getting there and settling in
We took a train from Bangalore to Madgao. We booked a hostel near Madgao railway station for a night before moving into an Airbnb house in Carmona. We stayed there for a week before moving to another Airbnb in Vagator-Anjuna. To get around, we booked taxis from Goa Miles and rented a vehicle locally as and when needed. We also tried local bus transport, but I didn't find it reliable especially after 6pm.
The Airbnbs we booked were equipped with a kitchen, washing machine, wifi, work desk and other essentials, so they weren't any different from home. We mostly cooked ourselves and tried local restaurants nearby.
A typical day
We usually worked during the day and we would take a stroll to the beach to enjoy sunsets in the evening. In South Goa, the beaches were clean enough to have a nice swim. Occasionally we would visit museums, cafes, events, and more distant beaches.
Places and things I liked
Beaches (most to least liked)
- Zalor (aka Carmona) - Cleanest and calmest of all
- Manderim - Unique in terms of beach and shacks setting. Clean and maintained for swimming. There's a less-known entrance through a nearby cafe called Prana — that entrance area is worth it for a quieter experience.
- Cavolsim - Clean and maintained. Recommend for swimming and enjoying sunset.
- Mobor - Again clean and maintained. Recommend for swimming and enjoying sunset.
- Ashwem - Many shacks and stays (not overwhelming though) on the beach but it is clean enough to visit a beach with some crowd.
- Morjim - Beautiful sunsets. The linked entrance leads to a secluded spot away from the main crowd. Go further ahead for the main beach entrance.
- Colva - Crowded but still clean and city like beach.
- Vagator - Too crowded for me. I got annoyed with the noise of water sports vehicles.
- Anjuna - Not recommended unless you have to go
Museums and galleries
- Museum of Goa (MOG) — Beautiful contemporary art gallery with a unique showcase of Goa's history. The cafe inside is also a nice spot to sit and try some local food — they serve a homemade kokum soda which was lovely.
- Goa State Museum — History of Goa from centuries ago. Beautiful sculptures and old items from the French and Portuguese ruling era.
- Sunaparanta Goa Centre for the Arts — The most calm and beautiful of all. The cafe inside the gallery looked stunning — sadly didn't get time to sit and have something there. There were 7-8 galleries on the display during my visit. They showcased works of different artists. Accessible place with good descriptions about each artist and their works.
- Anjuna Wednesday Flea Market — Only open on Wednesdays (self-explanatory). Not sure if you should buy something or not but worth visiting from an artist's perspective. At the end of the market, there's a nice sunset point but very crowded as it is closer to Anjuna beach.
Cafes
- Maverick & Farmer (Calangute road) — I purchased my coffees from them during my Goa stay. Nice place to work and enjoy a sunset. It's a franchise so you'll find their cafes in many cities, but this one had a nicer view. Must-have from any Maverick & Farmer outlet: churros — the best I've had.
- The White Balcao — A secluded little cafe at the end of a street within the hustle and bustle of Fontainhas. Nice place to have lunch and rest for a couple of hours to avoid the midday heat during your Panjim visit. Beautifully decorated, serves nice iced americano, and the food is also not too expensive.
Restaurants and bakeries
One thing worth trying anywhere in Goa is poee — a local Goan bread that's tasty, filling, and goes well with many things.
- Bulito's — Excellent burgers and tasty pizza, near Carmona
- Sameer's Homemade Food — Truly homemade food, even the pickle was freshly made. One of the tastiest Goan thalis I've had. It's a bit of a hidden gem — set back from the main road, so easy to miss if you continue on the road. It's only open in the afternoon between 12-3. Can be a nice spot for lunch if you are planning a day trip to South Goa.
- Jaws — A great spot for fresh bakery items. I used to buy my poee from here. Their butter croissant and brownies were lovely — people also recommended their pastries.
Thrift shopping
- The Good Karma Thrift Store — One of the most organized thrift stores I've visited. Prices are clearly marked on most items, with discounts on many of them. They also accept donations and have multiple pickup points across Goa. I have mixed feelings about thrift stores as a concept — the idea can encourage people to discard more — but reusing is still better than just throwing things away.
What surprised me
The beaches were clean and maintained by the tourism staff compared to my visit in 2022. They are now safer to swim in and well-maintained enough for a full beach day.
The farm fields beside the roads were something new for me. I enjoyed watching the landscapes a lot. It was one of the highlights of my trip. Reminded me of Studio Ghibli movies.
The roads are smooth. Not many potholes (at least during this season). Nicer roads really make a difference for longer journeys.
Cirrus Goa is where we stayed for most of our time there. It was a wooden cabin, but comfortable. The plants and trees around the property made the surrounding cooler. The place had so many things to paint and draw. My favorite thing was sitting on the tree house and watching the birds every morning. Cats would occasionally come and sit nearby.
I may sound too boomer here but the amount of hippie culture and people near Arambol beach was a shock. I know Goa is known for it but I was not expecting an area full of people enjoying it together.
What I didn't like
Even though this is known, it was a surprise to see the dynamic rental scooter pricing. Vendors would quote whatever price came to their head, and it could triple during any festivals.
Public transport and taxi prices are the most frustrating thing about Goa. I get that renting a two-wheeler is cheaper but making buses, auto-rickshaws and taxis more accessible would make a big difference.
During my stay, there was a 5 day carnival celebrating the culture of the state. I got to visit for a day but it was gravely disappointing. The parade sittings were not properly labelled. It started 4-5 hours late and the food and other celebration area had an entrance fee after some time (it was open before sunset). I went hoping to enjoy local cultural festivities but was saddened by the commercialization of it.
Would I go back?
For a vacation, maybe, but I would consider somewhere else if I have options. For long-term stays, again maybe, if I can rent my own place and have my own vehicle.